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Direct drive powerglide.?
by
One Time
on 09 Feb, 2012 12:06
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I have a direct drive powerglide that the only way it works, is to hold the lever that allows the fluid to the valve body open.. as soon as you let go of it the trans stops working. It should work, that once you get it moving put it in low, shift into drive and go.. this doesn't work?? this is the second used trans we bought that does the same thing..?? Even changed the shifter and valve assembly..? PLEASE HELP US.?
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#1
by
ask0329
on 09 Feb, 2012 14:38
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i know it dont answer your questions but have you seen the new valve bodys where you do not need any levers or valves in the cockpit? everything is internal inside the tranny. put it in gear and go. I was thinking about upgrading to one of them with the coupler instead of a fake converter.
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This is our 1st experience with a direct drive powerglide. I didn't know that there was a way to bypass the cockpit valve ! I will have to find more info on how that works. Sux trying to get an I.M.C.A. to go thru the corners with one hand.. LOL...! Thanx for the info..!
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#3
by
ask0329
on 10 Feb, 2012 07:52
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check out TCI powerglides website. they sell the valve body that allows it to be direct drive without a lever in the cockpit. I believe its around $250. they also sell the module that will lock up the tranny so that it can be push started if need be.
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Really ..? Thank You..! We will check it out..! Here's hoping we can finally get it going !
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that tci valve body SUCKS it be nice if it worked it has carb jets for forward and reverse i think like a 69 and 70 youll have to drill them out untill it works i tried it drilled it out 5 times what a pain to do pulling the pan off ea time as well as refilling the little bit of pricey fluid you loose
any how i could not get mine to work every time you put the car in gear it stalled violently what a joke and waste of $$ how ever i did have the direct drive tranny with the tci reverse shift pattern valve body it worked flawless and kicked the crap out of the competion on the track how ever in order for that to work youll need a 9 inch rear there for allowing you to run a lower rear geAR 670 or so because this reverse pattern is 1:1 i think you can buy the whole tranny for 800 from tci or speedway the converter is 300ish a local converter shop can make a dummy conveeter fo 100 or so i recommend getting the reverse pattern tranny for 800$. 800$ is worth it when you see how much power itll free up in your race car. good luck again speedway sells the tranny for 800$ as well as the converter. good luck the reverse pattern is all the way down untill you hit the track then 1 up to race in and it works awesome..
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Call 585-584-3494, tallk to Bob. He has been building and racin glides successfully for years.
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#7
by
ask0329
on 10 Feb, 2012 10:55
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i hear people mention the dummy convertors allot. would using the coupler free up even more rotating weight? You still have all that metal out over a larger distnace away from the centerline on the dummy convertor whereas a coupler is essentialy a way less diameter shaft.
Heres a link to a coupler. I believe TCI sells this coupler too but I just found this one off a quick search.
http://www.autotransdesign.com/motorsports_ServiceCenter/productdetails.asp?ID=122
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coupler definitely better.
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We have the coupler. This direct drive is definatly the way to go, if we can just get it to work right. After buying 2 used ones that were "REALLY GOOD TRANNYS !" Yeah right, ! But with the help that I have gotten on here we will get it right this time. We will call the number you gave us and hopefully he can get us going. Thanks guys for coming to the aid of VERY DESPERATE racer.! I have been racing over 30 yrs. and never had the reason to try these direct drives. But now it's my sons turn in the cockpit and after a frustrating year last year, maybe we can get some track time..!
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#10
by
ask0329
on 10 Feb, 2012 12:39
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i've been battling with the decision of ditcing the PG's and go with a bert. Weighing the cost of a PG rebuild vs a bert tranny, bellhousing, clutch, master cylinder and I would need new rear gears for the ford 9".
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#11
by
kevan3x
on 10 Feb, 2012 17:24
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andy do u run your powerglide in low?
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Yeah, we ran in low, not because we wanted to, we just never had a chance to run it long enough to do anything with it. After 3 wks of failures and pit passes, fuel, an hours haul and only making hot laps we just said thats enough, We live in a small town and we have no place to try it out other than when we get to the track. With the help we have been given it won't happen this year..!
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#13
by
ask0329
on 10 Feb, 2012 20:33
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yeah the first one that came in the car was set up to run in low gear. It had most of the bands pulled out of hi. Had just enough bands in it so that it passed tech with "two forward gears" or whatever the rule is. When that crapped out (running someone else's used up stuff) i picked up another PG that both hi and low worked. I tried using hi in hot laps but it was just to slow and couldnt pick up any speed. So I ran that one if first gear as well. Its completely stock and its held up for I think 3 or 4 races so far. I'm tying to get a back up plan together in case that one dies. Or should I say, when that one dies.
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#14
by
imca77
on 03 Mar, 2012 18:18
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what type of valve or lever are you talking about? i have one that i bought back in 95,its a tci unit with valve mounted on the dash,it works fine.has direct drive coupler,and i run it hi gear when under speed,low for going thru the pits or on restart.just trying to help out.